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Show Your US 1851-57 Imperforate Stamps

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Pillar Of The Community
Australia
928 Posts
Posted Yesterday   8:53 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Laurie 02 to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks but im asking a question
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Valued Member
Canada
385 Posts
Posted Yesterday   9:26 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Captain Stamp to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Here's a scan of the same stamp, before and after being exposed to hydrogen peroxide. Look at the letter "O" for POSTAGE. It really doesn't look like, before and after. The letter look blurry. What can I do to remove this "blurry" effect? This effect is probably because of moisture.



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Edited by Captain Stamp - Yesterday 9:27 pm
Pillar Of The Community
United States
817 Posts
Posted Yesterday   9:27 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add NicholasC to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
@Captain Stamp. For your #11 (blue grid cancel) that you have been asking about. You have suggested 95L8, 92R8, and 96L8. I'm not the expert, but I don't believe it is any of those (see below). I am assuming you are using stampplating.com. If so, what wizard characteristics are you using? I believe your stamp is relief B and has no inner frame lines, but what else are you using? I don't think you can rule out guide dots because some guide dots are outside the frame lines and your stamp has close margins.

I don't think 95L8 is correct because the left frame line on your stamp is further away from the top left diamond block than in the Chase image. Also, your left frame line does not pinch close to the lattice work across from the chin as in the Chase image.

I don't think 92R8 is correct because (and I might be wrong about this) the left frame line on your stamp is further away form the rosettes as the Chase image. Also the top frame line over the beginning part of the E in POSTAGE seems closer in the Chase image than on your stamp.

I don't think 96L8 is correct because of the spacing between left frame line and top left diamond block.
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Edited by NicholasC - Yesterday 9:39 pm
Valued Member
Canada
385 Posts
Posted Yesterday   9:36 pm  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Captain Stamp to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks, NicholasC! Yes, I use stampplating and I do looked too at the Chase images. So, these errors of position identification are surely because of my eye, I didn't observe well.

The plating wizard criteria I used are: Relief B, No inner lines, no guide dots, plate 8, #11.

By the way, thanks everyone for helping me, my stamp is completely okay. The color got completely back. It's such a nice shade! Do you think it looks like the exposure to peroxide worked well? And which shade of color does it now looks like?
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Edited by Captain Stamp - Yesterday 10:51 pm
Pillar Of The Community
United States
534 Posts
Posted Today  3 Hrs 28 Min ago  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add ioagoa to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Hi Captain Stamp --

Regarding your stamp wioth the blue grid cancel that you have been trying to plate -- a couple of hints:

-- You are correct that the stamp is a B relief -- and based on the strength of the 4 FL's, is from plate 8.

-- As Nicholas C pointed out -- the lower right corner frame lines are cut so close that you cannot automatically conclude that the stamp does not have a guide dot.

-- On your stamp, the TFL extends a touch beyond its intersection with the RFL -- and additionally, the BFL extends ever so slightly beyond its intersection with the LFL -- and these are useful characteristics for plating purposes.

I plated your stamp this evening -- and can certainly reveal its position if you want me to -- but I think you will gain great experience if you continue the hunt and see what you come up with on your own.

On "no-inner-line" stamps like this where there are no recut varieties or crazy bends in the FL's -- it is basically a "brute force" process of elimination. Knowing that it is a B relief automatically eliminates all of the A and C reliefs on the plate. Things to look at when your are going "brute force" stamp-by-stamp that can help you quickly eliminate possibilities are the white spacing relationships of the FL's to the diamond blocks and the white spacing relationships of the FL's to the rosettes. If any of those white spacings look off (i.e., too wide or too narrow) -- you can quickly eliminate the position and move on to the next. Once you get the hang of it -- it will tend to go pretty quickly. Make a list of potential positions as you go -- and then come back and study each one closer to rule it "in" or "out".

Hopefully this helps.

Give it another go-around and let us know what you come up with.

Regards // ioagoa
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Edited by ioagoa - Today 3 Hrs 27 Min ago
Valued Member
Canada
385 Posts
Posted Today  3 Hrs 10 Min ago  Show Profile Bookmark this reply Add Captain Stamp to your friends list  Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you really much, ioagoa! I'll try to plate it again tomorrow. It's a really passionating subject, and my goal is to learn as much as possible about this amazing subject! That was my first time plating, so that would be weird to be right with the position when it's your first time.

I'm a teenager, so I'll still have A LOT of time to learn about it in my life. It's a lifelong learning experience.
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