Show Your US 1851-57 Imperforate Stamps

I have, again, another question. Is my #11 a B relief and my #11a a A relief? Or I didn't observe well?

Hi Stalzer --

Your stamp with the black small Boston PAID in grid cancel is position 75L1i.

It has to be intermediate state because the DT occurred when plate 1E was re-entered by TCC to become plate 1i. In other words -- position 75L1E does not show the DT.

The images on the StampPlating website do not show the DT very well -- but the 2 images on StampSmarter show it very nicely.

Nice stamp!

Regards // ioagoa

Thank you ioagoa, appreciate the detail.

I bid only because of what I saw in the lower right.

Someone wrote a 10 on the back, but I made an attempt to plate it and the double dots at the upper right seem to make it plate 1L6. Scott 11. Did I get it right?

I agree it looks like 1L6.

I have a question for Harper1249. He proposed me to expose my stamp to hydrogen peroxide because it was oxidized and he told me to "let it cook for a while". How much time does it generally takes to get the original color back? 12 hours, 24 hours, or more?

@Captain Stamp. . .Do the H2O2 only with clearly sulphurized (not oxidized) stamps. I've done lots of experiments on this and it is really hard to screw up. I've left stamps overnight and they come out no different than if they had been dunked for 10 seconds. I am not sure if there are different concentrations of H2O2 available though - I've only tried with a 3% solution. I've even done it with stamps on cover with a q-tip and a gentle brush of the H2O2 - the sulphurization goes away in seconds.

My stamp is in a plastic container and there's a smaller one in it. My stamp is in the smaller one, to not be in contact with the H202. That's another way to do. My stamp is there since approximately 19 hours. The color changed a lot. I wonder if I should let the stamp there more time to be sure the color is almost completely back.

And there's some small spots on the stamp that weren't there before, so I wonder what is this.